Choosing a stitch for stretch fabric

When you work with stretch fabrics, the stitches have to stretch too. A regular straight stitch will break, because it cannot follow the pull of the garment.

Different sewing machines offer different stitches for stretch fabric. These are a few of the ones you might find on your household machine.

Triple straight stitch (1) looks like a thicker version of a regular straight seam. It stretches because the needle goes back and forth, sewing each stitch three times, which also makes the seam strong. It is a good choice for hems and for tight stretch garments.

Zigzag (2 and 3) is on most household machines and is a safe choice for most elastic fabrics, since you can adjust the width and often the length. It is suitable for finishing raw edges, and it also works for hems and for attaching elastic. It is not as strong as the three-step zigzag.

Three-step zigzag (4) may look like a regular zigzag at first glance, but each diagonal stitch is made up of three small straight stitches in a row. That makes it a strong zigzag. It also lies flatter, because it avoids the tunnel effect a regular zigzag can cause when it pulls the fabric together from side to side.

Triple zigzag (5) is easily confused with the three-step zigzag. It is a triple version of a regular zigzag, and it is much stronger.

Lightning stitch (6) is a narrow, long zigzag that works as an elastic straight stitch.

Overlock stitch (7) combines a straight stitch and a zigzag in one. You can join two pieces and finish the raw edges in the same pass, the way an overlocker does. Some machines come with an overlock foot that makes the finish neater, but you can get a good result without one.

Twin needle is a double needle that fits most sewing machines. It sews an elastic seam with two parallel rows on the right side and a zigzag on the wrong side. Thread two threads through the machine as if they were one, then separate them at the needles, one in each. Use a regular straight stitch when you are sewing with a twin needle. A wider stitch may break the needles, since the seam is twice as wide with two of them.

Ballpoint needle, also called a jersey needle, is made for knitted fabric. It has a rounder point than a regular needle, so it separates the threads of the fabric instead of cutting them.

Clear elastic stabilises seams and holds shape. Heavy jersey with a lot of drape, such as viscose, will pull downwards over time. An elastic band sewn into the seam lets it take more pulling and more wear.

Sewing tips

Do not pull the fabric as you sew. The seam will come out wavy and stretched. Feed the fabric towards the presser foot instead. On some machines you can lower the pressure of the presser foot, and a lighter pressure often helps.

Want to give jersey and stretch fabrics a try? Here are a few beginner-friendly patterns to start with:

Good luck – Mari Melilot 🌸